DAY 1: ARRIVE IN ANCHORAGE. Team Meeting at Noon for Expedition Orientation

and Equipment check.

DAY 2: TRAVEL TO TALKEETNA. We will drive several hours to Talkeetna. If

weather permits, we will fly into the Kahiltna Glacier with Doug Geeting Air

Taxi. There will be a on Glacier Expedition Orientation that will cover the

following topics: Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue, Sled rigging, Rope

Management and Camp Site Procedures. Establish Base Camp at 7,000 feet. If

we do not fly in , we will camp in Talkeetna if necessary.

DAY 3: CARRY SUPPLIES TO CAMP 1 (7,770 FEET), just south of the junction to

the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Moderate carry of about 9 miles

round-trip. You will return to Base Camp. Throughout the Expedition we will

follow the "climb high, sleep low" technique, for better acclimatization. We may be doing our climbing at night to

avoid the excessive heat and soft snow conditions. Sometimes this carry is done in one heavy load to save time.

DAY 4: MOVE REMAINING SUPPLIES AND ESTABLISH CAMP 1.

DAY 5: HAUL LOADS UP TO THE CACHE AT 10,000ft, near Kahiltna Pass .

DAY 6: MOVE EVERYTHING TO CAMP 2 NEAR MOTORCYCLE HILL.

Several options exist for camp sites between 9,000 & 11,000 feet, depending upon

weather, snow conditions and team strength. This is a moderately difficult

carry. 7-9 miles round-trip, with 2-3,000 feet of elevation gain. Return to

Camp 1. We will feel that we are climbing a mountain! If we trained right,

we will feel good!

DAY 7: BACK HAUL.. Go down to 10,000ft cache and bring back up to 11,000ft camp

DAY 8: HAUL LOADS TO JUST ABOVE WINDY CORNER (13,300 FEET).

We trade our snowshoes for crampons for steep snow

climbing up Motorcycle Hill , with spectacular views as your reward! 4+ miles round

trip. Sleds are getting lighter air is getting thinner, and views are awesome!

DAY 9: MOVE CAMP ALL THE WAY TO 14,300 FEET. This is

usually a long hard day. Weather and team strength will determine the

placement of Camp 3. We will use crampons and ice axe climbing around Windy

Corner. The route above 14,000 feet will come into view.

DAY 10: MELLOW DAY. We will either move camp from 12,500 ' to 14,300' or we

will descend from 14,300' to the Windy Corner Cache and bring everything

up to 14,300 feet.

DAY 11: REST DAY If food is still at Windy Corner; go down and get it. It

is important to acclimatize at this elevation by being active. Three nights

is minimum at Camp 3, more is ideal. This may be our first rest day. Rest

days are usually only taken when there is a storm and we can't climb.

 DAY 12: CLIMB UP THE HEADWALL TO 16,100 , AND IF POSSIBLE CONTINUE ON THE WEST BUTTRESS TO 17,200 FEET. Cache supplies and return to 14,300 feet. Climbing

up the Headwall (Fixed Line is from 15,500 to 16,100 feet) with a heavy pack,

is one of the most strenuous days of the trip, because of the steepness,

heavy pack and lack of oxygen. This is high altitude climbing!

DAY 13: MOVE CAMP TO EITHER 16,100 or 17,200 FEET. Weather and team strength

will again determine this decision. The 16,100' camp site is very exposed

but spectacular, while the 17,200 ' site is more secure and the best choice.

DAY 14: RETURN TO CACHE AT 16,1OO' or MOVE CAMP TO 17,200' Possible moderate

day, if weather is good. The Ridge between 16,100' and 17,200' (the true West

Buttress) is very spectacular and beautiful.

The 17,200' Camp will be the Summit Camp. We will go to the summit when the

weather is good and when the group is ready.

Safety is our number one priority.

SUMMIT DAY: Be patient! We will only try for the Summit when the weather

is good: mostly clear and calm! Count on eight to twelve hours or more for

the round trip climb. We probably will not feel normal up at 20,320 feet!

Being short of breath and just a general uck feeling is normal for high

altitude climbing. This is suppose to be fun ?

Usually we will depart camp early (7-9 a.m.), climb up to Denali Pass

(18,000') and follow the  route past Arch Deacon's Tower and the

Football Field to the slopes leading to the Summit Ridge. On this ridge we

can usually see down into the Ruth Glacier and view peaks like the Moose's

Tooth, Mt Huntington and more. If the weather is good, we will always

remember this view!!!

DESCENT: The descent will take one or two days. Usually we descent to

14,300', 11,000' or lower. And then on to Base Camp. If it is not too late

in the day, we will fly out to Talkeetna soon after you arrive in Base

Camp. Food and Showers in Talketna!!!!

.

LOAD HAULING: From Base Camp to 14,300 feet we will use a sled and

pack to move all food and equipment. Heavy loads are a reality. We must Be prepared

to carry loads up to 65 pounds and more. We will train for this by carrying a heavy

pack uphills or stairs! We will be tired often!

This Itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our

control.